Heavyweight T-Shirts: What GSM Means and Why It Matters
What GSM means on a t-shirt, why heavyweight cotton looks and lasts better, and what else to look for in a good tee.
If you have ever wondered why one plain t-shirt costs $15 and another costs $85, a big part of the answer is three letters on the spec sheet: GSM. Here is what it means, why heavier tees look better, and what to look for.
What GSM means
GSM stands for grams per square metre. It measures how heavy, and roughly how dense, a fabric is. The higher the number, the more cotton is in every square metre of the shirt.
- Under 160 gsm: lightweight. Thin, often slightly see-through, clings to the body.
- 160 to 200 gsm: midweight. Most standard tees.
- 220 to 300 gsm: heavyweight. Structured, opaque, holds its shape.
- 300 gsm and up: very heavy. Almost sweatshirt-like.
Why heavyweight tees look better
They hold their shape
A heavier tee hangs straight from the shoulders instead of clinging. That gives a cleaner outline and hides more, which is why heavyweight tees flatter almost every body type.
They are not see-through
White and cream tees are where this matters most. A heavy white tee stays white, not grey with skin showing through.
They last longer
More cotton means the collar is less likely to go wavy and the body is less likely to twist after washing.
They layer properly
Under an overshirt or knit, a heavy tee will not bunch or ride up.
Other things to look for
- Combed cotton: the short, rough fibres are combed out, leaving a smoother, stronger yarn.
- Garment washing: the finished tee is washed before you get it, so it feels soft from day one and has already done most of its shrinking.
- A good collar: a ribbed collar with some density so it stays flat.
- Fit: a classic fit with a little extra room in the chest and a slightly dropped shoulder looks relaxed without being sloppy.
How our tees are made
Every Lémanoir tee is 260 gsm combed cotton in a classic, slightly oversized fit. The graphic tees are garment-washed and carry hand-drawn prints of places we love, like Lake Léman on the Le Lac Weekend tee, a vintage motorboat on the La Semaine tee and an alpine cowbell on the La Cloche tee. If you want something plainer, the Signature tee carries just the cursive. Each colour is made in a run of ten.
Caring for heavyweight cotton
- Wash cold, inside out, to protect prints.
- Skip the tumble dryer, or use low heat.
- Fold rather than hang, so the shoulders do not stretch.
A good heavy tee is the base of every outfit above it. It is worth getting right.
